While it is important that a deck needs to be protected from the weather it can make things worse by applying stain on a surface that has not been cleaned. Prior to applying a deck stain the wood should be free of dirt, mold, mildew, graying and any old failing stains. A clean bare wood surface will absorb the new stain so it performs and protects as expected. Not only will a stain protect when applied to a clean surface it will help enhance the beauty of the wood creating a stunning finish.
Cleaning a deck can be done with a wood deck cleaner or a wood deck stain stripper. Both will clean the wood thoroughly prior to staining. When deciding, “do I strip or clean before applying a deck stain,” take into consideration the condition of your wood surface. If the wood is just aged, dirty and grayed then a quality wood cleaner can be used. While a wood cleaner may remove some transparent or semi transparent stains, a deck stain stripper is more effective.
When dealing with a deck or wood surface that has remnants of an old failing a stain stripper should be used instead of a wood cleaner. A stain stripper will soften and emulsify most semi transparent and semi solid deck stains so they can be washed or scrubbed away. A stripper will also clean dirt, mold and graying so there is no reason to use a wood cleaner following a wood stripper. Use one or the other. Clean to remove dirty grayed wood or strip to remove these pollutants in addition to an old failing stain.
Always after performing a strip or clean before applying a deck stain, you should neutralize the stripper or cleaner using a wood brightener. A brightener will lower the pH of the wood to brighten the grain and open the wood pores for accepting stain. If you are not sure if your deck has an old stain or sealer on it you can perform a water test. Sprinkle some water onto the surface. If it absorbs quickly it is likely that no stain is present. However, if it beads up and is repelled by the wood then a stain or sealer may be the culprit and a strip should be performed to remove it.
What is the difference between a semi transparent and a semi solid stain. I’ve always used 1502 and never had to sand but I do have to stain every 2 years and was hoping to be able to extend that a bit…..If I use a semi solid once and then want to stain again in a few years, will I have to sand?
No, you do not have to sand when you redo the semi-solids TWP. Just clean and recoat.
How far in advance of staining can I do the stripping? Is it okay if it is several weeks before or should it be closer to the anticipated stain date?
Stain within 1-2 weeks of prep.
Is there a shelf life factor for the TWP-1500?
12 months if opened.
We’ve sanded, stripped, sanded again, and brightened our deck. Still, some small areas bead/repel water. Do all these areas need to be stripped again before applying an oil based stain, or will it penetrate it? Thanks in advance!
If all of the old stain was removed then you should be okay to stain.
We cleaned an old redwood deck as recommended here, stained with AC and then applied a 2nd coat the second summer. We did install a new set of stairs down to the yard. Deck has looked beautiful. My questions is how to manage the effects of several wicked hail storms. The deck does has a pergola that provides some protection. The color has been nearly stripped from the steps (new redwood) as well as the perimeter of the deck on the north side (old redwood). There are other random parts that have some hail damage. The vertical components are almost untouched and really need no additional stain and some other parts of the deck surface still look great. What prep do you recommend? How should the stain be applied? Thanks
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner for the prep and one coat of the AC stain.
[quote name=”David Nash”]I’ve just stripped, best I could, Thompson’s water sealant, but not sure it’s enough to apply some Defy Extreme 1500. I guess if it doesn’t bead anymore it’s enough? Can’t really get a belt sander up into the overhanging beams. Will a palm sanding suffice?
DN[/quote]
As long as you removed all of the graying, any stain color and there is not beading, you should be okay to apply the Defy. Did you apply the wood brightener after the stripper?
I’ve just stripped, best I could, Thompson’s water sealant, but not sure it’s enough to apply some Defy Extreme 1500. I guess if it doesn’t bead any more it’s enough? Can’t really get a belt sander up into the overhanging beams. Will a palm sanding suffice?
DN
[quote name=”Ed Fitzhenry”]I have a weathered cedar deck that has been covered with Sikkens clear stain. I would like to repaint it with an oil based stain.
Do you supply oil based stains?
Will your oil base stain adhere to the weathered Sikkens stain or do I have to strip the surface to bare wood?
What preparation is required?
What colors are available?
Ed
Calgary[/quote]
Hello, you cannot apply another brand of stain on top of the Sikkens. You will need to strip and brighten all the wood. Look at the Armstrong Clark stain for Calgary:
https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
I have a weathered cedar deck that has been covered with Sikkens clear stain. I would like to repaint it with an oil based stain.
Do you supply oil based stains?
Will your oil base stain adhere to the weathered Sikkens stain or do I have to strip the surface to bare wood?
What preparation is required?
What colors are available?
Ed
Calgary